Nichnai Pass: First Major Challenge of KGL Trek

Nichnai Pass on Kashmir Great Lakes trek hits you like your first real test at altitude. It’s not just a pass you cross, it’s the moment the trek stops being a walk and starts being a climb. At 13,500 feet, this is where your lungs remind you that you’re not in the plains anymore. And yet, for all its challenges, Nichnai Pass is where most trekkers fall in love with the Himalayas.

Where exactly is Nichnai Pass?

Nichnai Pass sits roughly halfway between Sonamarg and Vishansar Lake, the first major campsite on the trek. You reach it on day three, after two days of gentle walking through maple forests and alpine meadows. 

The pass forms a natural gateway between the Sindh Valley and the Kashmir Great Lakes basin. Local shepherds call it “Nichnai Gali”—gali means “narrow pass” in Kashmiri. They’ve been crossing it for centuries with their flocks of sheep and goats. 

The altitude gain is brutal: you climb nearly 2,000 feet in just a few hours. That’s like walking up stairs for three hours straight, except the stairs are made of loose rocks and the air keeps getting thinner.

The Build-Up: What Comes Before

The journey to Nichnai Pass on KGL starts innocently enough. Day one is a drive from Srinagar to Sonamarg. Day two is a gentle 6-kilometer walk to Nichnai campsite. You walk through silver birch forests. You cross streams on wooden bridges. 

You think, “This is lovely. This is easy.” And that’s the trap. Your body feels fine. You’re breathing normally. You might even feel smug. But at the Nichnai campsite (11,500 feet), the altitude is already working on you. You just don’t know it yet. 

That night, you sleep fitfully. Your heart beats faster. You wake up thirsty. And at 6 AM, when your trek leader says, “Today we cross Nichnai Pass,” you have no idea what’s coming.

The Climb: Why It Breaks You

The ascent to Nichnai Pass on Kashmir Great Lakes trek begins with a false flat. You walk across meadows dotted with wildflowers. The sun is gentle. You think, “Maybe this won’t be so bad.” Then the trail turns. 

It becomes steep. Very steep. The grass disappears. Now it’s just rocks and scree. You take ten steps. You stop. You breathe. You take ten more. Your backpack feels like it’s filled with stones. Your legs burn. And the top? You can’t even see it. The pass hides behind a ridge, playing hard to get. This is where mental games begin. 

You start counting steps. You promise yourself a chocolate bar at the top. You wonder why you paid money for this suffering. And just when you think you can’t go on, you see prayer flags fluttering in the distance. You’re close. But close in the Himalayas is still an hour away.

The Reward: That First View

You reach the top of Nichnai Pass. You collapse on a rock. Your chest heaves. Then you look up. And suddenly, every painful step makes sense. On one side, you see the Sindh Valley stretching endlessly, green and gold. 

On the other side, the first of the Great Lakes—Vishansar—glitters like a sapphire in the distance. Snow peaks surround you. The wind carries the sound of distant waterfalls. You feel tiny. You feel huge. You feel alive. This is why you came. 

Trekkers often cry here. Not from pain, but from the sheer beauty of it. Your trek leader hands you a cup of hot tea. You sip it slowly. You take photos, but you know they’ll never capture this feeling. This is your moment. You earned it.

The Descent: Don’t Let Your Guard Down

Here’s what no one tells you about Nichnai Pass: going down is harder than going up. The descent is steep and slippery. Loose gravel slides under your boots. Your knees scream with every step. You walk sideways, like a crab. 

You use your trekking poles like lifelines. One wrong step and you’ll slide 50 feet. The trail drops 1,500 feet in under two hours. Your toes bang against the front of your shoes. You develop blisters you didn’t know were possible. 

And just when you think it’s over, you hit a snowfield. In June and July, snow still covers the north face of the pass. You sit and slide. It’s fun for five seconds. Then you realize you have no control. You laugh and scream at the same time. The shepherds watch you, amused. They cross this pass in rubber slippers. You’re in ₹20,000 trekking shoes and still falling.

Weather Woes: When the Pass Gets Angry

Nichnai Pass has a temper. Mornings can be sunny and calm. By noon, clouds roll in. Thunder rumbles. Lightning cracks across the sky. The pass is fully exposed. There’s nowhere to hide. If you’re caught in a storm, you’re in serious trouble. 

Hailstones the size of marbles pelt you. The temperature drops 10 degrees in minutes. Your raincoat flaps like a flag. This is why trek leaders start the climb at 6 AM. They want you on top by 10 AM, before the weather turns. 

In 2019, a group got stuck in a blizzard in July. They had to turn back. The mountains don’t care about your plans. They demand respect. You learn this lesson at Nichnai Pass.

Preparation: How to Beat the Pass

Can you train for Nichnai Pass on Kashmir Great Lakes trek? Yes. Should you? Absolutely. Start training two months before. Walk uphill. Walk downstairs. Carry a backpack. Feel the weight. Do squats. Lots of squats. 

Your knees will thank you. On the trek, pace yourself. Don’t race. The pass isn’t going anywhere. Drink water every 15 minutes. Eat dry fruits. Take small steps. Breathe deeply. Use the “rest step” technique: pause for a second between each step. It sounds silly. It works. 

Bring good trekking poles. They’re not optional—they’re essential. Wear broken-in boots. New boots at Nichnai Pass are a recipe for disaster. And mentally? Accept that it will hurt. Embrace the suck. The best views come after the hardest climbs.

Local Stories: What Shepherds Say

Old Kashmiri shepherds have stories about Nichnai Pass. They say a fairy lives at the top. She appears to those who are pure of heart. One shepherd, Gulam Rasool, told me he saw her in 1987. She wore a white phiran and offered him water from a silver bowl. Do I believe him? Doesn’t matter. 

The story adds magic. They also say the pass is a gateway between worlds. The world of men on one side, the world of gods on the other. When you stand at the top, you understand why they believe this. It feels otherworldly. 

The shepherds also warn: never shout at the pass. The mountains echo your anger back at you. Speak softly. Walk gently. Leave no trace. They’ve been crossing this pass for generations. They know its moods. Listen to them.

Key Takeaways

• Nichnai Pass is the first major altitude challenge on KGL trek, climbing to 13,500 feet.
• The ascent is steep and relentless, gaining 2,000 feet in just a few hours.
• Weather can turn deadly fast; start early and respect the mountains.
• The descent is often harder than the climb—prepare your knees and use poles.
• Views from the top are life-changing: valleys, lakes, and snow peaks in every direction.
• Local shepherds cross in rubber slippers; humility is your best gear.

What will you remember about the Kashmir Great Lakes trek? The pain? The view? The moment you wanted to quit but didn’t? Ten years from now, you won’t remember the blisters. You’ll remember standing on top of the world, sipping tea, feeling invincible. That’s the magic of Nichnai Pass. It breaks you down. It builds you up. And it leaves you changed.